-
Clips4Sale is having a Black Friday Sale On All Clips -
Unlock UP TO 20% OFF ON YOUR PURCHASES -
If you would like to get your account Verified, read this thread -
>>> If you cannot get into your account email me at [email protected] <<<
Don't forget to include your username
Need Some Advice
- Thread starter Krokus
- Start date
Dave2112
Level of Cherry Feather
- Joined
- Apr 17, 2001
- Messages
- 10,294
- Points
- 0
Get some newspapers, and keep them in the same place on the floor. When the dog does his businees in any other part of the house, gently tell him "NO" and put him on the paper. He will soon make the connection. Then start removing the paper, and take him outside at the SAME TIME every day for a few weeks. If after that, he still goes in the house, put his face in it (easily!) and immediatly bring him outside. It's a pin in the ass, but after a few weeks, he should get it.😎
desdemona
2nd Level Orange Feather
- Joined
- Apr 2, 2001
- Messages
- 2,376
- Points
- 0
This is one is more up my alley... 🙂
I agree with Q that crate training is a tried/true method that works for many people. But it depends on your circumstances. Here are some things that may help (BTW as I get to see a LARGE number of new puppies in the coming weeks, I will become sick of this lecture topic...so take notes!)
1. Establish a routine. Not just as to when to take the dog out, but when to feed it, exercise it, groom it. Imperative times to let a dog out: first thing in the morning, within 20 minutes of eating, and before putting it to bed.
2. Paper training is not the same as house training. If you want a dog to go on paper AND learn to go outside, do not expect perfection. It confuses the issue. And you will end up with a soiled paper or two. Decide which method will work best for you and stick with it! Be consistent.
3. DO NOT SCOLD/PUNISH AN ANIMAL if you didn't see it committing the act. So many differences in opinion here. But rubbing a dog's nose in a wet spot or a pile feces left hours ago is NOT going to reinforce the idea of what you don't want. It will make the puppy leary of that spot perhaps. But another place will do just as well the next time.
4. Try rewarding good behavior. I tell new owners to accompany the dog outside in the beginning. As soon as it finishes completing the act, praise and/or reward it. This can be verbal praise or a small treat/piece of food. Anything that says "good job!"
5. If it fails to "find a spot" in 10 minutes, do not wait until frostbite sets in! Bring the dog back inside - preferably to a cage/crate. I know...how many people tell me as soon as the puppy hits the floor, it proceeds to pee. You know what? Puppies have little to no attention span. Much like kids. So be patient. But they do forget what they were supposed to be doing and why you took them out in the first place.
6. When leaving a puppy alone, confine it to its crate or a safe area. Some argue that a crate is cruel. I argue that a houseful of electrical equipment and nice woodwork is too tempting for a such a creature left to its own devices. Babies have cribs, puppies have crates. It's a safe haven, not a prison.
7. Don't reward a puppy if it doesn't do the right thing. This ties in with #5 and #6. If you turn a puppy loose in the house after it fails to produce anything outside, you are asking for an accident. Don't reward it with playtime when it hasn't done what you asked. The crate can be a "time out" area - wait another 5 or 10 minutes, then try again.
8. Don't take a puppy out too often. One of the biggest things I hear from owners is "I take it out every hour and it still has accidents." Do you need to go over hour??? The purpose of house training is to train the muscles - both the urethral and anal sphincters - to hold urine/stool for an extended period of time. If you take a puppy out too frequently, these muscles will not become toned during this period. Loooooooonnnnngggg uphill battle waiting to happen.
9. A word about crates. If you expect your puppy to grow into a medium to large sized dog, you might have to partition off the crate in the beginning. Especially if you bought one for when the puppy will be full size. The idea behind the crate is to train those muscles mentioned above - in theory, a dog won't go where it has to sleep. But if it can discretely go in one corner...thenwhat's to stop it?
As mentioned earlier, you can find many sources online about crate training. I encourage you to find a book or talk to your vet about what method you've chosen and what results you're seeing. Everyone has a different approach. Find one that works for you and stick with it! Good luck!
Ok.....sorry for such a lengthy response...just had to get my nickel's worth in
Des
I agree with Q that crate training is a tried/true method that works for many people. But it depends on your circumstances. Here are some things that may help (BTW as I get to see a LARGE number of new puppies in the coming weeks, I will become sick of this lecture topic...so take notes!)
1. Establish a routine. Not just as to when to take the dog out, but when to feed it, exercise it, groom it. Imperative times to let a dog out: first thing in the morning, within 20 minutes of eating, and before putting it to bed.
2. Paper training is not the same as house training. If you want a dog to go on paper AND learn to go outside, do not expect perfection. It confuses the issue. And you will end up with a soiled paper or two. Decide which method will work best for you and stick with it! Be consistent.
3. DO NOT SCOLD/PUNISH AN ANIMAL if you didn't see it committing the act. So many differences in opinion here. But rubbing a dog's nose in a wet spot or a pile feces left hours ago is NOT going to reinforce the idea of what you don't want. It will make the puppy leary of that spot perhaps. But another place will do just as well the next time.
4. Try rewarding good behavior. I tell new owners to accompany the dog outside in the beginning. As soon as it finishes completing the act, praise and/or reward it. This can be verbal praise or a small treat/piece of food. Anything that says "good job!"
5. If it fails to "find a spot" in 10 minutes, do not wait until frostbite sets in! Bring the dog back inside - preferably to a cage/crate. I know...how many people tell me as soon as the puppy hits the floor, it proceeds to pee. You know what? Puppies have little to no attention span. Much like kids. So be patient. But they do forget what they were supposed to be doing and why you took them out in the first place.
6. When leaving a puppy alone, confine it to its crate or a safe area. Some argue that a crate is cruel. I argue that a houseful of electrical equipment and nice woodwork is too tempting for a such a creature left to its own devices. Babies have cribs, puppies have crates. It's a safe haven, not a prison.
7. Don't reward a puppy if it doesn't do the right thing. This ties in with #5 and #6. If you turn a puppy loose in the house after it fails to produce anything outside, you are asking for an accident. Don't reward it with playtime when it hasn't done what you asked. The crate can be a "time out" area - wait another 5 or 10 minutes, then try again.
8. Don't take a puppy out too often. One of the biggest things I hear from owners is "I take it out every hour and it still has accidents." Do you need to go over hour??? The purpose of house training is to train the muscles - both the urethral and anal sphincters - to hold urine/stool for an extended period of time. If you take a puppy out too frequently, these muscles will not become toned during this period. Loooooooonnnnngggg uphill battle waiting to happen.
9. A word about crates. If you expect your puppy to grow into a medium to large sized dog, you might have to partition off the crate in the beginning. Especially if you bought one for when the puppy will be full size. The idea behind the crate is to train those muscles mentioned above - in theory, a dog won't go where it has to sleep. But if it can discretely go in one corner...thenwhat's to stop it?
As mentioned earlier, you can find many sources online about crate training. I encourage you to find a book or talk to your vet about what method you've chosen and what results you're seeing. Everyone has a different approach. Find one that works for you and stick with it! Good luck!
Ok.....sorry for such a lengthy response...just had to get my nickel's worth in
Des
We used some "puppy pads" with our border collie pup. They come with some odorizer built in that attracts them to the pad and a plastic backing so the waste won't leak through to the carpet. They worked pretty well. We didn't have too many accidents. We just started to decrease the area we covered with the pads until it was very small and by that time she had the connection with doing her business outside.
But I waited until AFTER she was potty-trained before I got the new carpeting! LOL... Thank heavens because her aim wasn't always 100%.
Have fun with the little one. They grow up SO fast. Our collie is now 15 months old and she's just a gem.
Now all I need to know is how to wrap a present for the dog so she can't smell it under the tree! She unwrapped all kinds of packages looking for her present! LOL
But I waited until AFTER she was potty-trained before I got the new carpeting! LOL... Thank heavens because her aim wasn't always 100%.
Have fun with the little one. They grow up SO fast. Our collie is now 15 months old and she's just a gem.
Now all I need to know is how to wrap a present for the dog so she can't smell it under the tree! She unwrapped all kinds of packages looking for her present! LOL
