ShiningIce
3rd Level Green Feather
- Joined
- Feb 14, 2002
- Messages
- 4,704
- Points
- 36
Macho man has bitten the dust: he's been replaced by something just as tough inside, but softer at the edges. Peter Gotting reports on a new target market.
He loves Armani, is seen just as often near a catwalk as competing in sport, confesses an adulation for Kylie Minogue, even designs his own jewellery. But he's not gay.
So Ian Thorpe told Australia in a radio interview last November. With interests outside the domain of the traditional, Aussie, macho male, Thorpe talked about his sexuality for the first time. He was flattered that the gay community identified with him, he said, but he was, in fact, heterosexual. "You know, I'm a little bit different to what most people would consider being an Australian male," Thorpe told ABC Radio.
But he's not that different, at all. Men of all sexualities are taking a greater interest in their appearance. They go to hairdressers rather than barbers; avoid using soap because it's too harsh on their skin; visit the gym instead of playing sport and even have difficulty deciding what to wear.
They're occupying their time differently - not only spending more of it in front of the mirror, but also at boutiques, in bars rather than pubs, enjoying a dance at a nightclub and going to beauty salons. Cosmetics brands such as Ella Bache say men make up as much as 40 per cent of their salon customers in some areas.
Marketers are spurring on the change, dropping the macho element from products that target men. Gone are the tough male images, even from beer and car ads.
Men's fashion chains are growing, with women's stores such as Esprit launching men's ranges, and department stores offering boutique-style experiences. Men's magazines are increasing their coverage of fashion - not just for editorial reasons, but because they're getting more ads. The men's title FHM says its fashion and grooming advertising has increased 35 per cent over the past three years.
Twenty years ago, male fashion, skin care and vanity in general were identified with gay men. Now sexuality, it seems, is irrelevant. In fact, British newspapers have even found a new word for the softer man: the "metrosexual".
David Beckham, the man whom British academics have credited with changing male behaviour, has been deemed the ultimate metrosexual.
Beckham has helped break "masculine codes", says Warwick University sociology professor Dr Andrew Parker, "defying various manly expectations such as what clothes a man is allowed to wear".
Mark Wahlberg's semi-naked appearance for Calvin Klein underwear in the early 1990s is often cited as the beginning of mainstream male vanity.Like Thorpe, he's a "little bit different" from the traditional, heterosexual male.
Beckham may be captain of the English soccer team, but he wears sarongs and nail polish, and has even posed for gay magazines. As the American online magazine Salon said, he has admitted that he likes to be admired, and does not care if it's by women or by men.
Whether they have heard of the term "metrosexual", that's how men across the world are appearing. Stores such as the Myer Grace Bros chain say it's a trend that's starting to hit the mainstream. This year, the company will launch a department for male cosmetics and fragrances. While David Jones says its men's cosmetics range is experiencing double-digit growth.
There have always been men who have taken great care of their appearance, but now, says Myer Grace Bros cosmetics buyer Marissa Galatis,
"we are trying to appeal to the wider, men's market. In particular, to young men: a lot of this growth is driven by them."
Mark Wahlberg's semi-naked appearance for Calvin Klein underwear in the early 1990s is often cited as the beginning of mainstream male vanity. Marketing legend has it that the ad was aimed at a gay market, but straight men took notice. Whether it was because women were ogling, or men themselves thought the former rapper looked good, Calvin Klein soon became cult clubwear, with men wearing their pants low to show off the brand.
Ten years ago, Weight-Watchers was strictly for women and "gutbusting" was seen as the more acceptable term for a bloke. Now it's OK for guys to watch their weight.
"The under-40s are certainly interested in the way they look and their physique," says Allan Bolton, a key developer of WeightWatchers for Men. "Over-40s are interested in how they look for the health benefits."
Role models are changing and it's not just Beckham and Thorpe. Brad Pitt, Tom Cruise, Pat Rafter, Hugh Jackman, Lachlan Murdoch and footballers such as Craig Wing are manicuring their appearance and showing their softer side: Rafter appears as a caring father; Jackman in musicals as well as in tough-guy roles in films such as X-Men. Wing told women about his gentle side in a Cleo bachelor-of-the-year competition.
In response to this groundswell, magazine publishers have established men's titles such as Men's Health and GQ. Even the blokier ones such as FHM and Ralph have increased their fashion and skin-care coverage.
The general manager of men's wear at David Jones, David Bush, says, "There's no doubt that David Beckham, Robbie Williams and Ian Thorpe and the 'blokey blokes' that are interested in fashion send the message that, by being so, you are not going to look like a fairy.
"Twenty years ago, we sold clothes and now we sell fashion." Younger men, in particular, are taking to their bodies with closer shavers, fragrances, moisturisers and hair dye. Calvin Klein's fragrances, Crave, is aimed primarily at 15 to 22-year-old males, who spend much more time in front of the mirror than their fathers. Why?
As the presence of women increased in men's social and working lives - as their rights were belatedly recognised - men have changed the way they act. Straight men, some marketers believe, are changing because women demand their partners take greater effort with their appearance.
"The feminist movement has been the biggest contributor to the men's market since it has developed," says Jean-Marc Carriol, director of the fashion company Trimex, which represents Clarins in Australia.
As women have pushed for equal rights, Carriol says, "the success of that push has fundamentally altered the way men and women interact within the workplace. Appearance and grooming are really important."
The workplace itself has changed for many men, too. As the proportion of white-collar workers grows, so does the need to look good. To compete in today's work environment, you must dress well, have your hair cut neatly and take care of your body.
And as the world becomes increasingly globalised, Australian men are starting to see that men in other countries, particularly in Europe, proudly take care of themselves.
Even with beer, marketers are taking on a less macho tone when they communicate with men.
"We have certainly seen a change towards more segmentation (of the beer market)," says Lion Nathan's premium marketing director, Paul Foster. "There's still that 'hardcore' masculine image at the core end of the market, (but) there's also a lot more progressive market segments."
Men are also changing the way they buy homeware, cars and electrical goods, says Alan Treadgold, director of research and consulting at the advertising agency Leo Burnett.
"There's a lot of categories that are purchased by males, but using what we would conventionally regard as female cues," says Treadgold. "Traditionally, when purchasing home entertainment systems, we would expect guys to be motivated by gadgetry and technical features. But, increasingly, there's a certain type of male choosing it from what might be seen as female attributes, such as the environment of the store, level of service and other intangible things."
In car advertising, for example, much more emphasis is being placed on the people driving and the feelings they are experiencing rather than the car's specifications.
Global research by the advertising agency Euro RSCG last year showed that men were more secure in their masculinity, with those aged 40 and above displaying greater sensitivity, particularly through family values.
"The definition of what it means to be male is changing," says Euro RSCG's strategy planning director, Matt Donovan.
He loves Armani, is seen just as often near a catwalk as competing in sport, confesses an adulation for Kylie Minogue, even designs his own jewellery. But he's not gay.
So Ian Thorpe told Australia in a radio interview last November. With interests outside the domain of the traditional, Aussie, macho male, Thorpe talked about his sexuality for the first time. He was flattered that the gay community identified with him, he said, but he was, in fact, heterosexual. "You know, I'm a little bit different to what most people would consider being an Australian male," Thorpe told ABC Radio.
But he's not that different, at all. Men of all sexualities are taking a greater interest in their appearance. They go to hairdressers rather than barbers; avoid using soap because it's too harsh on their skin; visit the gym instead of playing sport and even have difficulty deciding what to wear.
They're occupying their time differently - not only spending more of it in front of the mirror, but also at boutiques, in bars rather than pubs, enjoying a dance at a nightclub and going to beauty salons. Cosmetics brands such as Ella Bache say men make up as much as 40 per cent of their salon customers in some areas.
Marketers are spurring on the change, dropping the macho element from products that target men. Gone are the tough male images, even from beer and car ads.
Men's fashion chains are growing, with women's stores such as Esprit launching men's ranges, and department stores offering boutique-style experiences. Men's magazines are increasing their coverage of fashion - not just for editorial reasons, but because they're getting more ads. The men's title FHM says its fashion and grooming advertising has increased 35 per cent over the past three years.
Twenty years ago, male fashion, skin care and vanity in general were identified with gay men. Now sexuality, it seems, is irrelevant. In fact, British newspapers have even found a new word for the softer man: the "metrosexual".
David Beckham, the man whom British academics have credited with changing male behaviour, has been deemed the ultimate metrosexual.
Beckham has helped break "masculine codes", says Warwick University sociology professor Dr Andrew Parker, "defying various manly expectations such as what clothes a man is allowed to wear".
Mark Wahlberg's semi-naked appearance for Calvin Klein underwear in the early 1990s is often cited as the beginning of mainstream male vanity.Like Thorpe, he's a "little bit different" from the traditional, heterosexual male.
Beckham may be captain of the English soccer team, but he wears sarongs and nail polish, and has even posed for gay magazines. As the American online magazine Salon said, he has admitted that he likes to be admired, and does not care if it's by women or by men.
Whether they have heard of the term "metrosexual", that's how men across the world are appearing. Stores such as the Myer Grace Bros chain say it's a trend that's starting to hit the mainstream. This year, the company will launch a department for male cosmetics and fragrances. While David Jones says its men's cosmetics range is experiencing double-digit growth.
There have always been men who have taken great care of their appearance, but now, says Myer Grace Bros cosmetics buyer Marissa Galatis,
"we are trying to appeal to the wider, men's market. In particular, to young men: a lot of this growth is driven by them."
Mark Wahlberg's semi-naked appearance for Calvin Klein underwear in the early 1990s is often cited as the beginning of mainstream male vanity. Marketing legend has it that the ad was aimed at a gay market, but straight men took notice. Whether it was because women were ogling, or men themselves thought the former rapper looked good, Calvin Klein soon became cult clubwear, with men wearing their pants low to show off the brand.
Ten years ago, Weight-Watchers was strictly for women and "gutbusting" was seen as the more acceptable term for a bloke. Now it's OK for guys to watch their weight.
"The under-40s are certainly interested in the way they look and their physique," says Allan Bolton, a key developer of WeightWatchers for Men. "Over-40s are interested in how they look for the health benefits."
Role models are changing and it's not just Beckham and Thorpe. Brad Pitt, Tom Cruise, Pat Rafter, Hugh Jackman, Lachlan Murdoch and footballers such as Craig Wing are manicuring their appearance and showing their softer side: Rafter appears as a caring father; Jackman in musicals as well as in tough-guy roles in films such as X-Men. Wing told women about his gentle side in a Cleo bachelor-of-the-year competition.
In response to this groundswell, magazine publishers have established men's titles such as Men's Health and GQ. Even the blokier ones such as FHM and Ralph have increased their fashion and skin-care coverage.
The general manager of men's wear at David Jones, David Bush, says, "There's no doubt that David Beckham, Robbie Williams and Ian Thorpe and the 'blokey blokes' that are interested in fashion send the message that, by being so, you are not going to look like a fairy.
"Twenty years ago, we sold clothes and now we sell fashion." Younger men, in particular, are taking to their bodies with closer shavers, fragrances, moisturisers and hair dye. Calvin Klein's fragrances, Crave, is aimed primarily at 15 to 22-year-old males, who spend much more time in front of the mirror than their fathers. Why?
As the presence of women increased in men's social and working lives - as their rights were belatedly recognised - men have changed the way they act. Straight men, some marketers believe, are changing because women demand their partners take greater effort with their appearance.
"The feminist movement has been the biggest contributor to the men's market since it has developed," says Jean-Marc Carriol, director of the fashion company Trimex, which represents Clarins in Australia.
As women have pushed for equal rights, Carriol says, "the success of that push has fundamentally altered the way men and women interact within the workplace. Appearance and grooming are really important."
The workplace itself has changed for many men, too. As the proportion of white-collar workers grows, so does the need to look good. To compete in today's work environment, you must dress well, have your hair cut neatly and take care of your body.
And as the world becomes increasingly globalised, Australian men are starting to see that men in other countries, particularly in Europe, proudly take care of themselves.
Even with beer, marketers are taking on a less macho tone when they communicate with men.
"We have certainly seen a change towards more segmentation (of the beer market)," says Lion Nathan's premium marketing director, Paul Foster. "There's still that 'hardcore' masculine image at the core end of the market, (but) there's also a lot more progressive market segments."
Men are also changing the way they buy homeware, cars and electrical goods, says Alan Treadgold, director of research and consulting at the advertising agency Leo Burnett.
"There's a lot of categories that are purchased by males, but using what we would conventionally regard as female cues," says Treadgold. "Traditionally, when purchasing home entertainment systems, we would expect guys to be motivated by gadgetry and technical features. But, increasingly, there's a certain type of male choosing it from what might be seen as female attributes, such as the environment of the store, level of service and other intangible things."
In car advertising, for example, much more emphasis is being placed on the people driving and the feelings they are experiencing rather than the car's specifications.
Global research by the advertising agency Euro RSCG last year showed that men were more secure in their masculinity, with those aged 40 and above displaying greater sensitivity, particularly through family values.
"The definition of what it means to be male is changing," says Euro RSCG's strategy planning director, Matt Donovan.
30 years ago they didn't have the far-reaching, globe-shrinking near instantaneous methods of mass communications they have now. 
