Tips for making your own stocks?

[BigNorm]

I'm definitely gonna be making myself a pair of stocks. anyone have any tips i should now for it? any design suggestions?

 

[Comfort Eagle]

I know how to rig one out of a bed frame. Or do you mean like the real deal http://www.law.missouri.edu/whitman/England/Cotswolds/09 - Stocks.JPG
Kinda thing?

 

[BigNorm]

ya, i mean the real enchalata.

i have some basic plans drawn up, i'll post them later

 

[Camel26]

Make sure they are padded, within the footholes, and along the outer edge of the footholes...just saying...comfort is key...😉

 

[BigNorm]

this is a rough drawing of what i want it to look like. i hope it's right. the legs and bse will be 4X4 boards, while the face where the feet will go will be 2 2X8's or 2X12's. and have it all bolted together, should have some weight to it, and be sturdy enough.

1. the front view.

2. the side view.

3. the top view.


good point, camel. i'm gonna put strips of soft carpeting in the foot holes, probably some small nails will hold it there. i've seen it done in tickle videos, and it looks comfy.

 

[skull108]

well on first sight doesen't look that bad, looks like a classical foot stock.Ofcourse u still need to add the little details and all but everything comes from basics.For the footholes, i dunno whats best for it but nails for holding it?? isen't it beter to apply a sturdy glue for it??

Also isen't it beter i u would use the lower part of the stocks to run down to the floor so u got a wider resting frame?? Not that anyone would be strong enough to brake it dough.

Might also have a sugestion for how to keep em closed without a lock... if u whant that i supose cous might be more frighting on the brean for the lee to actually see a lock.Anyway i notice on the drawing u made the upper part can be slided between the holders ,so why not drill a hole throug those and the upper stock part and just stick a metal bat or wooden through it so it can't lift anymore.

 

[BigNorm]

i'm attaching the carpet strip in the foot holes with a few small nails. the entire body will be held together with bolts.

also, it's made to be put on a bed or table. it can be tied or clamped down. the top portion will actually slide down, guillitine style to trap the feet, and just a couple bolts will be slid through the frame to lock it in place.

it may seem kinda bulky, but that way it stays strong and heavy, but not too heavy, so it's hard to struggle.

and of course i'm going to draw more exact blueprints for it.

 

[BigJim1]

I've built myself two sets... one large and one smaller like the ones PV use in their audition clips.

For a first attampt I'd reccomend going for smaller ones. Apart from anything else they're much easier to get into hotel rooms inside large bags. 😉

 

[Dannigrl]

No one better to ask than the stock master himself, Kujman. No one makes things like he does. I've seen and been in some of his creations. Comfy yet tight, great things all. His storeroom looks like a dungeon museum. One guy asked recently him to make him a set of stocks like his personal favorite, and then he described a set of stocks kujman has used in videos and magazine photos. Kuj gave him detailed how to do it plans. When the guy seemed hapless and just couldn't pull it off, he gave the set to the guy and shipped them to him. One awesome guy.

 

[birdburdy]

I have built stocks. Here's some advice:

1. Avoid nails - they are ugly. Take a little more time and use bolts - go for about 8mm-10mm diameter bolts. These look really good, they allow you to tighten the stocks to prevent distracting rattling sounds which make the stocks seem less intimidating to the wearer. Also you can undo bolts to transport the stocks around and store them, and if you get into making more stocks you can use parts of old stocks.

2. You don't need padding. Make the stocks tight (snug is probably a better word). If there is no room for the ankles to flap around then they can't get bruised. You'll also have to think about the shape if you're doing this - oblong or egg shaped... take your time. The feel of sanded wood against your ankles is very pleasurable, it's an unusual feeling too.

3. Make the wood thick. This is extremely important. The wood needs to be at least 2" thick (2x4 is just acceptable, even though it's actually only 1.6" thick). There are two reasons for this: practicality and effect.

In practical terms thicker stocks mean there is more wood in direct contact with your ankle, pressure is force divided by area, so they will be much more comfortable. This is how you can get away without padding.

The reason we use stocks is for effect. It is easier and cheaper to do with rope... but it doesn't feel as good. With a locked pair of stocks there is not a hope in hell of getting out. You can't even flex the damned things! Solid. That's a powerful feeling.
​

4. Think it all through. How are they going to be restrained - legs together or apart? What is the desired effect? You can achieve much better immobility by having the feet together and the wrists either side (AKA Kujman's famous Westbury Stocks). With Westburys the need to bolt the stocks to something solid is reduced, as the wearer cannot go anywhere in that position. Are you going to implement toe-bondage?

Good luck to you!

 

[BigJim1]

I have built stocks. Here's some advice:

1. Avoid nails - they are ugly. Take a little more time and use bolts - go for about 8mm-10mm diameter bolts. These look really good, they allow you to tighten the stocks to prevent distracting rattling sounds which make the stocks seem less intimidating to the wearer. Also you can undo bolts to transport the stocks around and store them, and if you get into making more stocks you can use parts of old stocks.

2. You don't need padding. Make the stocks tight (snug is probably a better word). If there is no room for the ankles to flap around then they can't get bruised. You'll also have to think about the shape if you're doing this - oblong or egg shaped... take your time. The feel of sanded wood against your ankles is very pleasurable, it's an unusual feeling too.

3. Make the wood thick. This is extremely important. The wood needs to be at least 2" thick (2x4 is just acceptable, even though it's actually only 1.6" thick). There are two reasons for this: practicality and effect.

In practical terms thicker stocks mean there is more wood in direct contact with your ankle, pressure is force divided by area, so they will be much more comfortable. This is how you can get away without padding.

The reason we use stocks is for effect. It is easier and cheaper to do with rope... but it doesn't feel as good. With a locked pair of stocks there is not a hope in hell of getting out. You can't even flex the damned things! Solid. That's a powerful feeling.
​

4. Think it all through. How are they going to be restrained - legs together or apart? What is the desired effect? You can achieve much better immobility by having the feet together and the wrists either side (AKA Kujman's famous Westbury Stocks). With Westburys the need to bolt the stocks to something solid is reduced, as the wearer cannot go anywhere in that position. Are you going to implement toe-bondage?

Good luck to you!

Interesting points, but speak from my point of view, I had to do things differently.

The padding was vital for me, for two reasons... 1/ I'm a crap carpenter and they helped cover the rough bits, and 2/ having just snug wood assumes all your lees will have ankles the same size. Even with padding I had one lee who was too big for them.

The Westbury style is great visually and also takes care of upper body bondage, but for a larger lee being bent double in that sitting position would be hugely uncomfortable (I've actually done a tickling video with a lee who was as fit and slim as they come, and even she needed help with it.) Add in extras like spine or joint trouble and you've a very uncomfortable lee.

Stocks like Kuj's are, without doubt, great, but they don't suit all. Namely larger or less flexible lees and builders whose carpentry skills are as bad as mine.

 

[birdburdy]

I like the idea of being able to take the stocks apart, so if I were going to make them the 2 legs of the stocks would have a slot in the middle of them with holes in each side.

That's what I do. Let's imagine you're using 2x4... the stocks are built from it therefore they are 2" thick (approx). For the stand use three pieces of 2x4, sandwiching a shorter piece in the middle to make the slot for the stocks. All this requires is for you to cut to length and drill bolt holes to hold the stand together. You may also want to have holes to bolt the stocks in place (you can make them height adjustable and it acts as a very solid locking mechanism).

I also use a real lock and a for show lock... the real lock is just a simple latch which holds them *tight* as to avoid rattling. There is also a hasp lock for a padlock, as it has more visual appeal and a nice clicking sound when you close it shut.

and 2/ having just snug wood assumes all your lees will have ankles the same size. Even with padding I had one lee who was too big for them.

Having different lees makes it difficult. You can design for that though. The ankles holes shouldn't be vertically centered - have about 1/3 in the top half, 2/3 in the bottom. You can change the bottom piece to accommodate smaller/larger ankles. So with 3 pieces of wood you can accommodate 2 sizes of ankle. Having thicker stocks also helps in this regard - if they are too big for the ankles you can get away with it.

The Westbury style is great visually and also takes care of upper body bondage, but for a larger lee being bent double in that sitting position would be hugely uncomfortable (I've actually done a tickling video with a lee who was as fit and slim as they come, and even she needed help with it.)

Some advice I got from Kuj about this... you need to make sure the ankles are propped up to about the same height as the lee's chin... the part of the legs between the ankles and the knee will be horizontal. You can use a strap too to take the strain off the muscles. Another trick is that the size of the ankle holes is less important in the Westbury style... as long as the hands are locked in and the feet cannot go up/down they are stuck, since their knees are already to the chest. You can use this with larger lees... give them bigger holes and their legs will do through the stocks, meaning they won't have to bend over so much and it will still feel tight because the stocks are around a slightly thicker part of the leg.

 

[BigJim1]

Having different lees makes it difficult. You can design for that though. The ankles holes shouldn't be vertically centered - have about 1/3 in the top half, 2/3 in the bottom. You can change the bottom piece to accommodate smaller/larger ankles. So with 3 pieces of wood you can accommodate 2 sizes of ankle. Having thicker stocks also helps in this regard - if they are too big for the ankles you can get away with it.

That would work, but only people with enough storage space could do it. Certainly someone like Kuj could carry that off, but although the theory is sound as the proverbial pound, I don't have the space, or the ability to shape wood so precisely. Nor do I feel I could ask a local chippy to do it for me with a straight face.

Some advice I got from Kuj about this... you need to make sure the ankles are propped up to about the same height as the lee's chin... the part of the legs between the ankles and the knee will be horizontal. You can use a strap too to take the strain off the muscles. Another trick is that the size of the ankle holes is less important in the Westbury style... as long as the hands are locked in and the feet cannot go up/down they are stuck, since their knees are already to the chest. You can use this with larger lees... give them bigger holes and their legs will do through the stocks, meaning they won't have to bend over so much and it will still feel tight because the stocks are around a slightly thicker part of the leg.

Won't have to bend over so much because their legs will be further through the holes? Wouldn't that entail the holes being large enough to accomodate the calves?

How would the strap work? Round behind the back of the lee and attached to the stocks on either side?

 

[BigNorm]

thanks for all the tips. i'm definitely putting padding in the ankle holes, i'm taking the idea from the stocks of the Tickled 2 Death videos and using carpet as the padding and making the holes slightly big for more lees. and if the ankles are too loose i'll add more padding in the form of washcloths.

i had planned on using thick wood. for the legs, gonna use 2 4X4's sandwhiching the 2 2X8 boards in each legs, putting it together with bolts. so it's sturdy and heavy. i will have a few little screw in loop hooks so i can tie the toes back.

by the way, does Kujman have a website or e-mail i can get some more ideas or even buy some stocks? cause i'm a so-so carpenter.

and thanks so much for the help 😀

 

[birdburdy]

thanks for all the tips. i'm definitely putting padding in the ankle holes

Well leave it until the end: just try it without before you add the padding.

and if the ankles are too loose i'll add more padding in the form of washcloths

Don't you think that will just look cheap and nasty? I mean it'll work, but it's hardly traditional.

i will have a few little screw in loop hooks so i can tie the toes back.

Hmm, if you want to do toe bondage a toe-bar is better. I think Kujman invented these. They are more comfortable, safer (because the load of pulling is spread across all toes) and they give the foot much much less movement. They are also very easy to fit to the style of stocks you described: drill holes in the 4x4 posts which are sandwiching the stocks, then run a dowel from one post to the other. You bind the toes to this dowel.

by the way, does Kujman have a website or e-mail i can get some more ideas or even buy some stocks? cause i'm a so-so carpenter.

Yes he does. He is best contacted at his Yahoo "Ticklepalace" group: groups.yahoo.com/group/ticklepalace.

Won't have to bend over so much because their legs will be further through the holes? Wouldn't that entail the holes being large enough to accomodate the calves?

Correct, well kind of, we're not talking about letting 1/2 the leg go through the stocks, just a couple more inches than normal. The holes will have to be larger than normal for this and you achieve this by using replacable sections as I mentioned before. If there is some looseness around the upper-ankle it doesn't matter so much since the bent-over position makes it impossible to get out.

How would the strap work? Round behind the back of the lee and attached to the stocks on either side?

That would probably fall off. Pass it under the thighs and round the back. Alternatively you can have them backed up to a wall, so that it essentially props them up. Experiment with it.

 

[Violetta]

I've already given you my basic thoughts on how they might look/be assembled. And I'd suggest, if you can find it, black or purple carpet for the padding. 😉

 

[Dannigrl]

Carpeting for padding?

Oh jeesh

🙄

 

[BigJim1]

For what it's worth, y'all may be getting some info direct from the horse's mouth sometime soon. So all of you planning on building stocks please hold fire for a bit.

 

[P[a]pi]

Carpeting for padding?

Oh jeesh

🙄

What padding do you think is best? Or are you for no padding at all?

I've seen spungey foam and leather used before as padding.

 

[birdburdy]

Carpets => carpet burns. Not soo good.

I prefer no padding, though if I needed padding I would apply it to the *person* not the stocks... a dish towel (or towel) wrapped tightly and taped around the ankles would do it.

 

[Violetta]

Fake fur! Just 'cause it looks good on fuzzy handcuffs. 😛

 

[birdburdy]

Dannygrl implied that Kujman might be posting here soon. That would clear this up. He advised me against using padding in general, but there are a few occasions where he's used it in photographs.

He really is the most knowledgeable about restraint methods.

 

[BigNorm]

I've already given you my basic thoughts on how they might look/be assembled. And I'd suggest, if you can find it, black or purple carpet for the padding. 😉

i might try carpeting, or even fuzzy for with padding, if it'll work. gonna go with black. looks nice.

thinking of painting the stocks black, maybe with purple designs, ya know, go all out. look nicer than your run of the mill stocks.

 

[Violetta]

I like the idea of the fur. n_n And the black paint sounds awesome. I say go for it. 😀

 

[BigNorm]

thanks for the idea, Sammi, i think i'll go for it!

btw, i need to chat with you as soon as possible about it. thanks again!