Tips for making your own stocks?

[birdburdy]

And so...

Today I had time to put it all together. The hinge was easy. The latch was tricky. I thought a latch with a twisting "lock" would be best, being as how it is easy for the 'lee to be able to get out without problems.

What's a twisting lock? I usually use either suitcase locks or a hasp.

Also, a real lock would be too scary for some.

It's up to you of course, but you know it is really meant to be scary! Fear and sexual arousal are intimately linked.

Now, padding. What a disaster. I used a liquid foam.

I've said this a million times - you don't need padding. Just because all the clips use it doens't mean it is necessary. I tried it once and found it to be far too much trouble. It comes loose with wriggling, and if you were relying on it for comfort when it comes loose you have to stop the scene = bad.

To avoid padding use a thicker wood. You said you used 6x1... try at *least* 2" thick wood (softwood is perfectly acceptable). The thicker the wood the lower the pressure exerted on the ankles (as the same force is distributed over a larger area). The other trick is to make the stocks tight (and given these are for one person, you really can do this). If the stocks are tight enough to prevent excessive movement it is actually safer! See if you 'lee can riggle too much inside huge holes then they can bruise themselves.

If you really must use padding apply it to the 'lee - easier on easier off, and it doesn't affect the appearance of your stocks.

but I had to reattach the latch a couple times. Because of the latch I selected, the stocks open a bit on the non-hinge end.

It is really really hard to screw the latches in the right place, keeping everything tight. The answer is to *glue* the latches first (use either epoxy - WITH GLOVES - or all purpose glue).

But, ah well. I did it. I made stocks for a fiancee who is understanding, supportive, and enticed by my bondage/feet tickling fetish. If nothing else, I have a decent prototype. I'm somewhat proud, and anxious to see her reaction. She took the camera with her for the weekend, so I can't post a photo tonight.

Wish me luck, and happy tickling!:redface:

Well have fun - and keep us posted. I may post a picture of my own stocks too actually.

 

[lordbaron]

Actually, it was 2" wood, and well sanded. But, seeing as this will be our first time, I didn't want it to be scary to the point of traumatizing...I want to keep doing this.

The lock is a twist-hasp thing. I put the latch over the hasp, and twist it, as opposed to locking it. However, because of this, I think I'll use the suitcase latch next time.

And, possibly, invest more in sandpaper than padding. That part took 3 times as long as making the stocks themselves.

Hope to show my girlfriend soon. I'll let you know her reaction. Maybe I can post a picture too, but I am afraid of critique on them; they were my first attempt and it is very "prototype".

 

[birdburdy]

And, possibly, invest more in sandpaper than padding. That part took 3 times as long as making the stocks themselves.

If the sanding takes the longest, then it sounds to me like you're doing it right! Sand paper is hard work on the hands though, and it's almost impossible to get the curve right: try using a rasp too.

Hope to show my girlfriend soon. I'll let you know her reaction. Maybe I can post a picture too, but I am afraid of critique on them; they were my first attempt and it is very "prototype".

I hope she appreciates! I wouldn't be scared of people's reactions on here... from what you've said above, you've put more-than-average effort into making the stocks.

 

[Big_Blue]

If you're looking for something nice-looking there are things you can do. It needs to be strong, so I'd use a hardwood such as oak or maple. You will probably have trouble finding hardwood boards that are very thick, so padding might be necessary. Even though it's a soft-wood, I'd suggest not using cedar. Mainly because it's actually poisonous to a degree and it can splinter. Blood poisoning would suck. Don't use alder either, it's also splinters pretty badly. I'd want to keep the wood protected, so using a coat or two of stain or something might not be a bad idea. Red oak with a natural finish looks nice, especially if it's quarter-sawn. With this wood and finish, brass hinges look very nice. If you want a really nice-looking set of stocks, I'd use figured-walnut sanded down until it's smooth as a mirror and hit it with a natural finish. Face it, a set of stocks is a special piece of furniture to be used for special, late-night occasions.

 

[lordbaron]

She likes it! She actually likes it!

I showed them to my fiancee, and she really like it. She was shocked at how much of a "handy man" I was for the job.

The only problem with them is the padding. I used a bit too much. It was no problem; I just removed the top padding. I had folded a thin linen sheet over and over about 8 times, then nailed it into the hole's rim. I took it out, and she got in them. Talk about a dream coming true!

My next time tries--I think I'll just sand the holes, and see how that feels for her. Also, 4 inch holes seemed a little too big, so I might try 3 inch holes. Her feet stay in no problem :redface: but she has skinny wrists. Also, I had the center two holes apart by 4 inches--it's a little too far from each other. I wanted her to be able to do the foot-covering-the-other-foot move, but the length is a bit to much; she can touch big toes, and that's about it.

So, in all, a success:super_hap. I will find the cord so I can transfer pictures of the stocks to this links. I don't know if she would let me take her picture with her feet in it, but I'll try.

Thanks to those who were helpful, and the rest of you can go suck eggs.

 

[BigJim1]

I've said this a million times - you don't need padding. Just because all the clips use it doens't mean it is necessary. I tried it once and found it to be far too much trouble. It comes loose with wriggling, and if you were relying on it for comfort when it comes loose you have to stop the scene = bad.

To avoid padding use a thicker wood. You said you used 6x1... try at *least* 2" thick wood (softwood is perfectly acceptable). The thicker the wood the lower the pressure exerted on the ankles (as the same force is distributed over a larger area). The other trick is to make the stocks tight (and given these are for one person, you really can do this). If the stocks are tight enough to prevent excessive movement it is actually safer! See if you 'lee can riggle too much inside huge holes then they can bruise themselves.

If you really must use padding apply it to the 'lee - easier on easier off, and it doesn't affect the appearance of your stocks.

It is really really hard to screw the latches in the right place, keeping everything tight. The answer is to *glue* the latches first (use either epoxy - WITH GLOVES - or all purpose glue).

I considered this when I made my two sets and I think it comes down to how good a carpenter you are. My padding both cushions the lee and hides the fact that I'm a crap carpenter. (Although no amount of padding can hide the dribbly bits of Cuprinol!)

I'll grant you it looks good without padding and if the job is done well enough you don't need it, but not all of us are up to that standard.

 

[birdburdy]

I'll grant you it looks good without padding and if the job is done well enough you don't need it, but not all of us are up to that standard.

It did take a little practice. I tried out sawing curves in different woods. I think I used spruce in the end, but it may have been pine.

Cut the ankle/wrist holes, trying hard not to make sudden turns (which lead to sharp corners). It helps a lot here if you draw on the wood (on both sides) what shape you'll be cutting and stick to that. The result will be a little rough, but the next stage will fix that.

Now you need to use a rasp. It's like a file, but much rougher. Sanding smoothes wood, but it is extremely difficult to actually remove (i.e. mold) the wood with sand paper. A rasp will make quick work of the job, and it will leave a slightly rough surface which will sand to a beautiful smooth one. There are two things to do at this stage:
1. leave room for the tendons at the top and bottom of the feet - this is why the holes should be egg-shaped and not circular
2. taper the holes so that when the victim tried to pull their hands/feet out they are not rubbing against a sharp point of wood. In other words, use a rasp to turn the hole (view from the side)

___

___

into

\__/

/---\

 

[Big_Blue]

Did you cut your holes with a bandsaw?

 

[birdburdy]

Did you cut your holes with a bandsaw?

No, I just used a coping saw.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Coping_saw